Hiking Seven Star Mountain: Mt. Qixing Multi-Peak Trail

This is one of the most scenic and easily accessible hikes in Taipei City. That’s right. There’s a national park in Taipei City. The zoning out here will never cease to amaze me. Anyway, the national park is called Yangmingshan. Chiang Kai-shek named it after one of his favorite philosophers. That’s at least one reason to become president; you get to name mountains. (Can you imagine Trump’s national park? The entrance fee would be $100 USD and the main attraction a coal mine.) I digress, the highest summit in Yangmingshan is Qixing, which is also known as Seven Star Mountain or Cising Mountain. I’m not sure how it ended up with three names, but there you go. To save my sanity and yours, for the rest of this post, I will refer to the mountain as Mt. Qixing.

This hike will take you to the top of Mt. Qixing, which is a modestly sized mountain resting at 1120 meters above sea level. Not to worry though, the national park’s bus system lets you cheat. Essentially, there are three ways up the mountain. This blog outlines the easiest and possibly most scenic path to the top. If this is your first visit to Yangmingshan, this is the trial for you. You’ll see volcanic steam vents, yellow sulfur crystals, plenty of silver grass and beautiful rolling mountain vistas. Originally from the states, I still can’t get over hiking on an active volcanic system that has lava moving around and creating chemical reactions underneath my feet. Dragons make perfect sense.

Start your hike with the Xiaoyoukeng Trail. This one-hour hike up hill will take you straight to the summit. It’s easy, clearly marked and without a doubt the best way to get to the top. Roughly translated, Xiaoyoukeng means “oil pit.” You’ll see and smell why as soon as you get off the bus. There’s a large sulfur vent right next to the trail. Hope you like eggs. After an hour of smelling them, I wanted to gag. However, it is the largest volcanic vent I have ever seen to date and a really cool experience. As you hike to the top, be on the lookout for more volcanic characteristics, such as fumaroles and sulfur crystals. This is where they will be.

Once you reach the summit, the hard part is over and you can take a rest. There are plenty of boulders lying around to picnic on and you can entertain yourself by watching the Taiwanese queuing championships. Let me explain: At the summit, there’s a big pole stuck in the ground and everyone wants to take a selfie with it. Next thing you know, you’re on top of a mountain, in the middle of a national park and watching people line up in such an orderly fashion that any theme park attendant would be proud. This phenomenon is completely new to me. Needless to say, I did not wait in that line, but snuck a picture of the post while it was between groups.

From the summit, you’ll be able to see Taipei city proper. At which point, it becomes apparent that if this thing you are standing on ever blows, lots of people will be forced to question their life choices. You’ll, also, be able to see Qixing East Peak. That’s your next stop. Surprise! This is a multi-peak, two-for-the-price-of-one hike. Seriously though, it’s not far. At a moderate pace, you can reach the second summit in about fifteen minutes from the main peak. Once you reach the east peak, take a minute to enjoy the view and then follow signs for Lengshuikeng. This is the trail that will take you down the mountain.

In English, Lengshuikeng translates to “cold water pit,” which makes absolutely no sense. If you had any doubt in the Taiwanese sense of humor, this should put it to rest. Seriously though, Lengshuikeng trail starts at Qixing East Peak, winds its way casually down the mountain through Qixing Park and then terminates at Lengshuikeng Visitor Center, which is located right next to… wait for it… a HOT SPRING. What else would you find in the middle of a volcanic park?

Take your time going down; there is a lot to see in Qixing Park. For the record, there is actually a park, so feel free to bring Frisbee and casually throw it around or at the back of your friends’ heads when they are not looking. There is also a large pagoda in the middle of the trail that makes for a great place to stop and have a snack or a nap or both. You’ll need to catch your breath after running away from your friends who are currently stalking you with a Frisbee and murderous intent.

That’s it! Once you reach Lengshuikeng Visitor Center, the hike is over. Feel free to stay and check out the hot spring. This is a fairly short hike and you’ll have plenty of time. From start to finish, the trail is 4.5 kilometers and takes three to four hours to complete. Be careful. There are no public restrooms on the trail and you’ll have to hold it until you reach the visitor center. This isn’t a huge problem as you’ll be sweating most of your water out anyway. Still, go easy on the liquids and pack toilet paper just in case. Also, pack plenty of food and sunscreen. Don’t be fooled and think that just because it’s January you won’t get burned. This is Taiwan!

One last thing, check the weather before you go. You need a mostly sunny day or better for this hike. Otherwise, good luck seeing all those beautiful vistas mentioned above. On a cloudy day, you’ll be lucky to see five feet in front of you. Yes, it really is that bad. Clouds love Mt. Qixing. Even on a mostly sunny day, they will surround the peak, turning it into a completely different, misty world. You’ll suddenly find yourself in the “Upside Down” for a few minutes until the clouds pass and everything goes back to normal.

Getting Around

To reach the Xiaoyoukeng trail head, take the R5 bus from Jiantin Station to Yangmingshan bus stop and get off. The R5 runs every ten to fifteen minutes, so there’s no need to worry about timing or ticket reservations. You can, also, pay the bus fare with your Easy Card. At the Yangmingshan bus stop, queue up for the Yangmingshan National Park bus also known as the 108. This will take you to the trail head. Be careful. There are different 108 buses, so make sure you are on one that is headed to Xiaoyoukeng. Of course, disembark from the 108 at the Xiaoyoukeng Recreational Area. They don’t announce the stops in English, so you’ll have to be paying attention. Look out for the sign and for the massive steam vent or just wait until you smell eggs. To get home, catch the S15 bus from the Lengshuikeng Visitor Center. This will take you right back to Jiantin MRT station.